This video helped me a lot when first learning how to attach the elastics. I typically get my elastics from Bra Builders, as they have a decent selection of types and colors.
Before sewing the elastic
To get to this point, the panties must have been drafted, cut out, and the main pieces assembled. Here are some helpful things to keep in mind before starting to sew:
- I find a size 12 universal needle works best for me, but it depends on the machine.
- I use Gutermann all purpose thread, as it is my go-to for most garment sewing projects. However, any regular all purpose thread will likely work.
- Cutting the elastic to the desired length reduces variance between panties. I find this is the best way to ensure I am getting the same fit every time.
Fold over elastic (FOE)
Rather than stitching one side of the FOE down then stitching the other side, I find it easier to go around with a single pass, holding the elastic in place as I go. This technique takes some practice, but once it’s mastered, it is really quick.
- Cut elastic to comfortable length plus 1/4″ seam allowance on both sides. Connect the ends by overlapping and stitching RS together.
- Quarter the elastic and panties. Match up points.
- Fold elastic in half over edge. Using a regular zig-zag stitch with a 3.0 stitch width and 2.5 stitch length, stitch elastic around openings near the open side of the elastic.
Picot elastic
The only difference between regular and picot elastic is that picot has a decorative edge that is meant to stick out. It looks best when the stitch is sewn as close to the picot edge as possible, without sewing on it. This results in a clean line for when it is flipped over where just the decorative edge is seen.
- Cut elastic to comfortable length plus 1/4″ seam allowance on both sides. Connect the ends by overlapping and stitching RS together.
- Line up the non-picot side of the elastic with the edge of the fabric, with RS of fabric facing the RS of the elastic. Using a regular zig-zag stitch with a 2.5 stitch width and 2.5 stitch length, stitch around entire opening as close to the picot edge as possible. Stretch the elastic if needed, but try not to stretch the fabric.
- Flip the elastic to the wrong side. Using a 3-step zig-zag stitch with a 5.0 stitch width and 1.0 stitch length, top stitch over the elastic. Stretch gently, if needed. Also, try to sew close to the unattached edge so it stays securely in place. Repeat for each opening.