Drafting a single welt pocket

Single welt pockets are a popular pocket style on blazers and other light outerwear. There is also a double welt pocket, which is basically the same thing but with two folds on the opening instead of one; but, this one involves a couple changes, so for this post I will just be discussing pockets with a single welt.

Determine the size of pocket and opening

Below is a chart of suggested sizes for welt pockets. It depends on what you are making, so I suggest you look at your garment and make a decision based on that.

Note: I came up with these measurements on my own, other people may have other suggestions.

Small (pants or smaller hands)4″ or 5″6″ to 8″
Medium (women’s wear)5″ or 6″8″ to 10″
Large (men’s wear)6″ or 7″10″

Welt pocket measurement suggestions

Draft pocket pieces

Front piece

This is the piece that will be closest to your garment; it will constitute the front of the pocket, as well as the fabric that makes up the welt opening. The opening height can be whatever size you want, but I’ve typically seen it as 1/2″ or 3/4″.

welt pocket draft
Welt pocket front piece draft

Height = 1 1/4″ + opening height + pocket depth (+ seam allowance x2)

Width = 2″ (1″ for each side) + pocket opening size (+ seam allowance x2)

For example, the front piece for a medium size welt pocket with a 5″ opening and 8″ depth would be 8″ x 11″:

welt pocket draft
Medium welt pocket draft with 5″ opening and 8″ depth

Back piece

There are two ways to draft the back piece:

  1. Copy the size as your front piece, but subtract the height of the welt opening —OR—
  2. Wait until your front welt is sewed and finished, then measure the size of the finished piece and cut the back piece that size. 

Cut pieces

Cut 1 of each piece of the front and back pocket pieces for each pocket you are making, and interface if needed.

If your fabric is quite flimsy, you want to use interfacing to make it firmer; if you don’t the welt may droop, which is not a good look. You can interface just around the part that will become the welt, or you can interface the whole front piece.

Mark on garment

Mark the box of the opening on the right side of the garment and the wrong side of the front pocket piece. This way, when you lay them right sides together, you will be able to see both markings.


For more information on how to add welt pockets, check out the following articles:

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